Prudently Green

What is "Prudently Green"?

When we talk about Prudently Green, we are referring to building approaches, materials and technologies that:

  • Are in fact green (not all things sold as green are really green or green in every application).
  • Make sense for your project.
  • Provide you value.
  • Either lower the cost of building and/or owning your home, have no impact on cost, or have a cost that is acceptable based on your priorities and reasons for being green.

JB Construction is committed  to offering our clients the full range of environmentally sustainable construction and lifestyle options. Call us to see how our “Sensibly Green” approach can work for you.

CONVERTING OLD BASEMENTS INTO LIVING SPACE

CONVERTING OLD BASEMENTS INTO LIVING SPACE

By Jim Bruce

JB Construction Services, Inc.

 

As a remodeling contractor, we receive a few calls a year to look at converting unfinished basements into living space.  I live and work in the Portland Oregon area and the great majority of basement conversions occur in older houses, because newer ones are not built with basements, unless they are daylights.  Things to consider in the planning stage are:

  • Is the basement dry?  I mean “really dry”.  Nobody wants moisture problems that can lead to high humidity, rot and mold.  So we ask each homeowner how long they have lived in the house, have they ever had a leak, etc.  Then we carefully inspect the basement and the surrounding yard.  Does the ground slope away from the house?  Are the rain drains in good shape?  Does the foundation have an exterior perimeter drainage tile and what shape is it in?  Are there a lot of trees around the house that could cause the gutters to overflow?  All of these factors and more are considered.  Even if all of the above checks out, we recommend that almost all basements should have an internal perimeter drainage system installed inside the basement and below floor level, with a sump well and pump to catch any water infiltration.  That same system has a plastic fin that protrudes slightly above the floor near the foundation wall and re-directs any wall leakage down into the drain tile under the floor.  Then we frame the interior stud walls inside and away from the plastic fin.  We have found that this “last line of defense” is very effective and protects the homeowner’s  investment.

 

  • Is there reasonable access to the basement from both inside and outside?    Building codes require a proper stairway from the inside or outside.  Invariably, the homeowner wants unfettered internal access to the basement, and that can cause challenges with the upstairs floor plan.  The basement must also have a secondary exit in the event of a fire or other emergency.  An egress window or outside door can suffice as a secondary exit.  Additionally, each bedroom must have its own egress window or door.

 

  • Is there enough headroom in the basement?  The code minimum in Portland is 6’8”, but we recommend  a minimum of 7’0” after all finishes are installed.  We will often dig down to achieve this.  Sometimes the existing foundation is not deep enough and we will build one under the existing foundation walls to achieve the desired height.  There is also the furnace and its ductwork to consider. 

 

  • Is there enough light down there?  Much can be done with windows and light tunnels.  Window wells can be turned into small atriums or gardens.

 

  • Is the old plumbing in good shape?  We encourage our clients to change out the drains and supply lines, especially in older homes.  If they are cast iron or galvanized steel, they will never hold up for the 50 or more years that a basement remodel should last.  The newer materials are much more durable and efficient.  Having to repair a sewer line under the concrete basement floor, after doing that beautiful remodel, can be very disruptive and costly.

 

These are the main points that you should consider when planning to remodel your basement. 

Tour of Remodeled Homes 2011

Green Building

10 Tips to help you design your home to be environmentally friendly and save energy.

  1. Design to maximize natural daylight and passive ventilation.
    Daylight makes a dramatic difference, especially in our climate. In addition to making you feel better, daylighting can cut down on electric bills. Well-placed operable windows circulate fresh air throughout your home.
  2. Choose deconstruction and construction site recycling.
    The demolition debris from a typical residential kitchen or bathroom remodel equals, by weight, four years of curbside recycling from an average household. Deconstruction is the selective hand-disassembly of building structures to maximize salvage for reuse. Minimize the impacts of your project, keep reusable and recyclable materials out of the landfill, and save costs, too.
  3. Weatherize.
    Adding insulation and new, energy-efficient windows to an older home not only saves money in fuel costs, it improves comfort year-round.
  4. Buy energy-efficient kitchen appliances, furnaces and water heaters.
    All appliances with an “Energy Star” rating are a good choice. You can claim Oregon tax credits on some appliances. Ask the retailer for details or visit the OR Dept. of Energy’s web site for a list of qualifying appliances.
  5. Choose water-efficient fixtures.
    On average, toilet flushing, showers and faucets account for 60% of all indoor water use. Installing efficient toilets, faucet aerators and showerheads can save a typical household up to $200 annually in water and energy bills. Install 1.6-gallons per flush toilets, 1.5-gpm faucet aerators and 2.0-gpm showerheads with on/off toggles.
  6. Use low-VOC paint (50 grams/liter or less VOC content).
    Insist on solvent free or low-VOC (volatile organic compounds) paint. Low and no VOCs will make painting a healthier and more enjoyable experience. If oil paints are being used, relocate during the paint job until your home is free of fumes.
  7. Choose formaldehyde-free products.
    Many people don’t know that formaldehyde, a suspected carcinogen, is commonly found in carpet, cabinetry, insulation and other building products. Consider installing a hard surface floor instead of carpet. If you do install carpeting, install a green rated carpet – check out www.carpet-rug.com for more information. Also make sure you choose formaldehyde-free cabinetry, and look for formaldehyde-free insulation.
  8. Buy used, recycled, certified or regraded wood products.
    You can purchase used and regraded wood from the ReBuilding Center. Certified wood products are cut from sustainably managed forests, and affixed with a seal to help you identify them. They are available at an increasing number of stores.
  9. Harvest your rainwater for irrigation.
    A well-designed rainwater harvesting system that captures rainwater from rooftops for use in irrigation.
  10. Landscape using native and drought-tolerant plants.
    Native plants are naturally adapted to our environment, so they require minimal care and watering and provide valuable habitat for birds and wildlife.

Aging-In-Place Checklists for Home Remodeling

Are you wondering what you should consider including in the design of into your project? If so, the Aging-In-Place Design Checklists might be helpful.

The checklists below contain features you may want to consider for your renovation project. They also give you a quick reference for various aging-in-place issues. While these lists are not all-inclusive, they will get you thinking on the right track.

Exterior

  • Low-maintenance exterior (vinyl, brick)
  • Low-maintenance shrubs and plants
  • Deck, patio, or balcony surfaces are no more than ½ inch below interior floor level if made of wood

Overall Floor Plan

  • Main living on a single story, including full bath
  • No steps between rooms/areas on the same level
  • 5-foot by 5-foot clear/turn space in living area, kitchen, a bedroom, and a bathroom

Hallways

  • Minimum of 36 inches wide, wider preferred
  • Well lit

Entry

  • Accessible path of travel to the home
  • At least one no-step entry with a cover
  • Sensor light at exterior no-step entry focusing on the front-door lock
  • There needs to be 32 inches of clear width, which requires a 36-inch door
  • Non-slip flooring in foyer
  • Entry door sidelight or high/low peep hole viewer; sidelight should provide both privacy and safety
  • Doorbell in accessible location
  • Surface to place packages on when opening door

Thresholds

  • Flush preferable
  • Exterior maximum of ½ inch beveled
  • Interior maximum of ¼ inch

Interior Doors

  • There needs to be 32 inches of clear width, which requires a 36-inch door
  • Levered door hardware

Windows

  • Plenty of windows for natural light
  • Lowered windows or taller windows with lower sill height
  • Low maintenance exterior and interior finishes
  • Easy to operate hardware

Garage or Carport

  • Covered carports and boarding spaces
  • Wider than average carports to accommodate lifts on vans
  • Door heights may need to be nine feet to accommodate some raised roof vans
  • Five-foot minimum access aisle between accessible van and car in garage
  • If code requires floor to be several inches below entrance to house for fume protection, can slope entire floor from front to back to eliminate need for ramp or step
  • Ramp to doorway if needed
  • Handrail if steps

Faucets

  • Lever handles or pedal-controlled
  • Thermostatic or anti-scald controls
  • Pressure balanced faucets

Kitchen and Laundry

Counters

  • Wall support and provision for adjustable and/or varied height counters and removable base cabinets
  • Upper wall cabinetry three inches lower than conventional height
  • Accented stripes on edge of countertops to provide visual orientation to the workspace
  • Counter space for dish landing adjacent to or opposite all appliances
  • Base cabinet with roll out trays and lazy susans
  • Pull-down shelving
  • Glass-front cabinet doors
  • Open shelving for easy access to frequently used items

Appliances

  • Easy to read controls
  • Washing machine and dryer raised 12 to 15 inches above floor
  • Front loading laundry machines
  • Microwave oven at counter height or in wall
  • Side-by-side refrigerator/freezer
  • Side-swing or wall oven
  • Raised dishwasher with pushbutton controls
  • Electric cook top with level burners for safety in transferring between the burners, front controls and downdraft feature to pull heat away from user; light to indicate when surface is hot

Miscellaneous

  • 30-inch by 48-inch clear space at appliances or 60-inch diameter clear space for turns
  • Multi-level work areas to accommodate cooks of different heights
  • Open under-counter seated work areas
  • Placement of task lighting in appropriate work areas
  • Loop handles for easy grip and pull
  • Pull-out spray faucet; levered handles
  • In multi-story homes, laundry chute or laundry facilities in master bedroom

Bathroom

  • Wall support and provision for adjustable and/or varied height counters and removable base cabinets
  • Contrasting color edge border at countertops
  • At least one wheelchair maneuverable bath on main level with 60-inch turning radius or acceptable T-turn space and 36-inch by 36-inch or 30-inch by 48-inch clear space
  • Bracing in walls around tub, shower, shower seat, and toilet for installation of grab bars to support 250 - 300 pounds
  • If stand-up shower is used in main bath, it is curbless and minimum of 36 inches wide
  • Bathtub - lower for easier access
  • Fold down seat in the shower
  • Adjustable/ handheld showerheads, 6-foot hose
  • Tub/Shower controls offset from center
  • Shower stall with built-in antibacterial protection
  • Light in shower stall
  • Toilet 2 ½ inches higher than standard toilet (17 to 19 inches) or height-adjustable
  • Design of the toilet paper holder allows rolls to be changed with one hand
  • Wall-hung sink with knee space and panel to protect user from pipes
  • Slip-resistant flooring in bathroom and shower

Stairways, Lifts, and Elevators

  • Adequate hand rails on both sides of stairway, 1 ¼-inch diameter
  • Increased visibility of stairs through contrast strip on top and bottom stairs, color contrast between treads and risers on stairs and use of lighting
  • Multi-story homes may provide either pre-framed shaft (ie. stacked closets) for future elevator, or stairway width must be minimum of 4 feet to allow space for lift
  • Residential elevator or lift

Ramps

  • Slope no greater than one inch rise for each 12 inches in length, adequate handrails
  • Five-foot landing provided at entrance
  • Two-inch curbs for safety

Storage

  • Adjustable closet rods and shelves
  • Lighting in closets
  • Easy open doors that do not obstruct access

Electrical, Lighting, Safety, and Security

  • Light switches by each entrance to halls and rooms
  • Light receptacles with at least two bulbs in vital places (exits, bathroom)
  • Light switches, thermostats, and other environmental controls placed in accessible locations no higher than 48 inches from floor
  • Electrical outlets 15 inches on center from floor; may need to be closer than 12 feet apart
  • Clear access space of 30 inches by 48 inches in front of switches and controls
  • Rocker or touch light switches
  • Audible and visual strobe light system to indicate when the doorbell, telephone or smoke or CO2 detectors have been activated
  • High-tech security/intercom system that can be monitored, with the heating, air conditioning, and lighting, from any TV in the house
  • Easy-to-see and read thermostats
  • Pre-programmed thermostats
  • Flashing porch light or 911 switch
  • Direct wired to police, fire, and EMS (as option)
  • Home wired for security
  • Home wired for computers

Flooring

  • Smooth, non-glare, slip-resistant surfaces, interior and exterior
  • If carpeted, use low (less than ½ inch high pile) density, with firm pad
  • Color/texture contrast to indicate change in surface levels

Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning

  • HVAC should be designed so filters are easily accessible
  • Energy-efficient units
  • Windows that can be opened for cross ventilation, fresh air

Energy-Efficient Features

  • In-line framing with two by six studs spaced 24-inch on center
  • Air-barrier installation and sealing of duct work with mastic
  • Reduced-size air conditioning units with gas furnaces
  • Mechanical fresh air ventilation, installation of air returns in all bedrooms and use of carbon monoxide detectors
  • Installation of energy efficient windows with Low-E glass

Reduced Maintenance/Convenience Features

  • Easy to clean surfaces
  • Central vacuum
  • Built-in pet feeding system
  • Built-in recycling system
  • Video phones
  • Intercom system

Other Ideas

  • Separate apartment for rental income or future caregiver
  • Flex room that can used as a nursery or playroom when the children are young and as a home office later; if combined with a full bath, room could also be used for an aging parent/aging in place